The iconic snow-capped Mount Fuji is described as a shy mountain as it is not often visible! When I learnt that it is not snow-capped at all during the summer/autumn I was less disappointed that we had not seen the top. We went first to Fujiyoshida and from there climbed partway up Mount Arakura to the temple which was a pretty pagoda structure. From there if conditions are perfect you can see Mount Fuji. We had to make do with taking photos of the temple, enjoying the view and taking a photo of the paintings in the roadway on the walk from the town which showed the pagoda and mountain in the snow and in the cherry blossom season. We can pretend we saw it just like that!
Later we drove up to the 5th station of Mount Fuji itself. The station has shops, temples and display boards to provide more information about the mountain. The fifth station stands at 2305m above sea level while the summit rises to 3776m.
Hakone open air museum was a wonderful place to spend a few hours. If the walking got to be too tiring you could sit for a while, soaking your feet in the hot spring foot bath and watch the world go by.
My favourite piece was “Pegasus and Man” by Swedish artist Carl Milles, created in 1949. It soared high above us and I was fascinated by it, walking around to view from different angles trying to figure out how to capture it best on my camera.
Pegasus and Man by Carl Milles (1949)
Art lovers will enjoy exploring the (covered) Picasso pavilion, learning about the prolific artist and viewing paintings and ceramics by the artist from different periods of his life.
There was an 18m high tower called the Symphonic Sculpture. The spiral staircase inside brought you to the observation deck on top from where you could appreciate the natural beauty of the area. The photo below gives an idea of the colourful interior thanks to it’s stained glass walls. Other sculptures could be seen clinging to the walls on the outside.
My other personal favourites included the pretty Fairy Chapel design in glass and the Grande Heracles Archer but there are too many to do justice to in this piece. See more at https://www.hakone-oam.or.jp/en/
Hakone Sekisho – checkpoint
This restored checkpoint on the route between Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto the former capital provided a fascinating insight into the shogunate period. The checkpoint was in operation from 1619 for 260 years. It’s main role was to control the flow of arms entering Edo and to prevent women leaving Edo without authorization.
Looking down on the checkpoint post and lake from the lookout tower up the hill.
During that period the wives and children of the feudal lords were often kept hostage in Edo in order to guarantee the good behaviour of the lords! They often tried to escape so a major function at the checkpoint was to check that any women travellers were who they said that they were and were indeed authorised to travel! As they did not have passports or photo id then their papers described their physical characteristics so those were carefully compared to the lady (known as Deonna) to confirm her identity.
As I walked back to the bus stop I saw a sign for an ancient cedar tree lined path so I took that route back to the nearest town Motohakone. This was the original walking route between Edo and Kyoto. I enjoyed the coolness in the shade of the forest and felt so tiny compared to these giants – the awesomeness of nature! You might make out the tiny people in the photo!
Can you see the people walking on the path beneath the giant ancient cedars?
The following day we took a short cruise on Lake Ashino from beside the checkpoint to Hakone-en port from where a cable car runs up Mount Komagatake. On a good day there are views of Mount Fuji (allegedly!) from the lake and cable car but it was not to be for our trip. However we did enjoy the views of the lake, mountains, the checkpoint itself and the bright red Tori gate at the lakes edge.
I had seen the cable car station at the top of Mount Komagatake the previous day but I had not realised what it was then due to the clouds and because I was just looking at it through a view finder. I just thought it looked very mystic and made for an interesting photo! I was disappointed to learn what it was. We took the cable car to the top and visited the temple and checked out the view from the top. Unfortunately the weather was not clear enough to see very far.
Through the clouds, the cable car station looked to be mysterious
It would be remiss to finish this blog without reference to the hot spring or onsen baths prevalent in the area. Our hotel had both public (separate male and female) baths for guests while some rooms including mine had an individual bath on the balcony which was not overlooked. As the protocol for the public baths is not to wear any clothing I opted for the private experience on my balcony. The water from the tap was very hot so I had to add a lot of cold water before I could get in. Unlike say Rotorua in New Zealand there was no sulphur or other strong smell from the spring water. The power of geothermal activity provided a lovely way to relax at the end of a long day of sightseeing. Some people at the hotel who went to the public baths for the dawn did recommend that experience and the guide after we had left said that the guests normally go for an overnight stay when they enjoy a bath in the evening and again last thing before retiring in the night and take a third dip in the morning before they depart! Maybe next time…
Onsen bath on my balcony
Hattisar - Gayl's Travel Blog 